Crewel Embroidery

Crewel embroidery takes its name from crewel yarn, a strong two-ply variety of wool. This style of embroidery became popular in 16th century England; by the 18th century, it was superseded by silk embroidery in England, but in America the crewel fashion lasted much longer. With the Industrial Revolution and the invention of roller printing to decorate cloth, there was no longer a need for this style of embroidery.
The designs are generally not naturalistic. Stylized exotic fruits and flowers grow from the same stem and designs are often filled with wild birds and animals. These designs were usually not original; embroiderers could copy designs from pattern books. Although American needle artists often copied English designs, they also invented new uniquely American motifs such as pine trees, wild grapes or sheep. They also used economical stitches which could cover a large area with color since wool was less available in America.

Bed hangings, c. 1745
The bed was the most usual article of furniture decorated with crewel embroidery. Chair seats were also decorated, but these wore out quickly. Pockets (two tied around the waist under a dress) and petticoats were sometimes decorated.

Bed coverlet in crewel embroidery

Bed coverlet in crewel embroidery

Samplers

A Sampler Verse

With cheerful mind we yield to men
The higher honors of the pen
The needle's our great care
In this we chiefly wish to shine
How far the arts already mine
This sampler does declare.

The word sampler was originally "exempler" (from an Old French word) because amateur embroiderers during the Renaissance exchanged pieces of embroidery with examples of various designs and stitches. Once pattern books were developed, this purpose disappeared. Thereafter the sampler became an educational exercise for young girls, a display of femininity, and often a representation of piety, since Bible verses and prayers were stitched on them. (Occasionally, there was a note of rebellion; one sampler says "Polly did it and she hated every stitch she did.")
Although the sampler is a limited art form, various kinds existed: friendship samplers, with stitched messages, exchanged by friends; samplers commemorating national events; those indicating family events--births and deaths, for example.
Samplers were usually embroidered with silk or linen thread on linen cloth; some were embroidered with crewel yarn but many of these have been destroyed by moths.

Sampler by Mary Antrim

Sampler by Esther Coggeshall
(note Adam and Eve)

Sampler by Mary Batchelder